Tuesday 26 March 2019

GNW100 2018

GNW100

I press the small pair of scissors to the end of my toe, press, cut, and a rush of ooze floods out.  Three weeks since the GNW100, and there goes the last reminder.  Time to write.

2013 - paced 75km at GNW
2014 - paced 75km at GNW
2015 - paced 75km at GNW
2016 - attempted GNW100 miler.  Sleep and inexperience stopped me at Somersby (130km down, 40km to go).
2017 - injured (went for a nice walk on GNW instead)

All these years hanging around the GNW100s, and never finished an event.

2018 - entered GNW100km

I delayed entering for a bunch of reasons.  Changing banks and other financial matters meant keeping a lid on expenses for a while.  Definitely wasn't sure whether I had trained enough, or whether I would have the chance to train enough.

In the end, I raised the subject with the lovely Cait who told me in no uncertain terms "Just enter.  You are driving me nuts.  It will be good for you".  It still took me another month of procrastinating/ deliberating/ worrying before I clicked the magic button though.  I think I think too much.

Leading into the event, I was still worried about my training.  Running was mostly confined to 20/30km runs on the weekends, some bike riding, some walking.  However, I felt fit as a fiddle and injury free, and was confident.  

I never really stop training and exercising.  The only thing missing was long long runs.  However, as time goes by, I am less convinced that they add anything really to my fitness.  They just seem to add to my level of tiredness and soreness.  Over recent years, for a variety of reasons, I have been prioritising sleep, rest, recovery.  I was about to put this line of thinking to the test. 

Unable to get a Friday off work, I compromised by swapping to an early shift.  This was to come back and haunt me, but at least it got me on the road to Teralba with enough time to drop off the Toyota ECHO at the finish line, then off for dinner and wine with the lovely Cait.  Back at the airBnB, I laid out my gear, mixed my Tailwind, then had a glass of champagne and watched as the Melbourne Storm beat my Rabbitohs by a point.  Then I slept like a baby and woke up just before my 4.45am alarm. 

Attempting the 100 miler in 2016, I had written out a lovely race plan which I had dug out of my files for this run.  Did I mention I think too much ? For my 2018 plan I kept the times, but removed all those energy bars and gels that I had barely looked at two years ago and had just been dead weight or remained in drop bags.  Last time I had either finished a leg carrying too much water, or not enough.  This time I started with 1L Tailwind, and two small empty plastic bottles with Tailwind powder.  My drop bags were simply taped shut plastic shopping bags with a few GU's and Clif bars along the way, and old Coke bottles of premixed Tailwind that went into the bin at the check points.  I refilled my small water bottles at the check points.  Simples. 

My race plan was basically 30km - 20km - 30km - 20km. 5 hrs - 3 hrs - 5 hrs - 3 hrs.  The purists will dispute these times and distances, but I was keeping this as simple as possible.  A sketch plan as opposed to a complex work of art.  I have learned that (for me) a detailed plan only leads to confusion.  The times added up to 16 hours, but I knew this wasn't happening.  Realistically 16.5 - 17.5 hours.  In the end though, I didn't really care.  Just finish.   

The big day dawned.  Actually I was up before dawn applying lubricant to “those areas” and taping my nipples.  The big day didn't really dawn until we were parking at Teralba.  After a no fuss check in, weigh in, and distributing of drop bags, it was time for a quiet chat with a few folk, and then we were off.  

6am - START

The 30km to Check Point 1 was fairly uneventful.  Last night’s enormous storms had turned the rainforest section to mud and slush, but not too bad.  The track trail dips in and out of gullies and creeks and crosses fire trails.  A few tricky points.  Just as I was congratulating myself on being so trail savvy, I fell for the trick of following another runner as they headed off course.  A voice yelled "to the right" just as I was heading left into nowhere. Oops.  I acted nonchalant and put on my best "of course we go right" face and carried on.  

Check Point 1 - 30km - 10.35am - 4.35 hours

In and out in 11 minutes.  As I was leaving I saw a handful of chips on a plate which I chomped down.  The memory of those chips stayed with me the whole next leg.  I was delirious with the desire for more.

I know it sounds weird to most, but I was so enjoying myself.  I find running these events so relaxing.  I spend so much of my life having every decision questioned, needing to justify every choice, every decision by committee.  Out here, if I screw up, it is my problem and mine only, with no recriminations.  Just the way I like it.  I am such an introvert.  The sun was shining, the weather was cool, I was in heaven.  

I reached the point where I had bumped into Steph last year when I was injured and just out walking.  I had given her a big hug.  That moment came back to me and I remembered how much I wished I was running - and now here I was !  I had a big mental lift and trotted along happily.  This section is just a lovely long run past grass trees, orchids, views across the Hunter Valley, gum trees, fascinating rock formations, then a nice single trail descent down to the Congewai Valley.  Two years ago it had been hot and I had run out of water.  This year it was cool and I had plenty of water.  I felt pretty good, but along the way caught up with friend Jeff trudging along at an angle from muscle issues.  Last week I had been bandaging his head after he ran into a branch and sliced himself open; this week I was offering commiserations.  Several years ago he had come across a large red bellied black snake and walked into a tree as we walked together. He must hate the sight of me sometimes.  I eventually trotted on towards CP 2 at Congewai School.

Check Point 2 -  24.0km (53.9 total) - 2.01pm - 3.26 hours

WHERE ARE MY CHIPS ! I WANT CHIPS ! No chips.  Sad face emoji.  Next year I'm putting chips in my drop bag.  Another lesson learned.  All on offer was sweet and sticky and not what I wanted.

In and out in 14 minutes.  Chatted with Gav who had DNF'ed.  Chatted with Kevin who had finished his 50km event and was looking disgustingly relaxed and fresh.  Listened to chatter about heading off to the pub for a beer and chips.  It was a real effort not to say "#metoo".  Instead I ate a few chunks of banana and went off for a gear check prior to departure.

The first mission was the climb to the Communications Tower.  Every time I do this I forget how long it is.  At the top another runner was collapsed.  He remarked "I always forget how big that climb is".  I replied "because if we remembered we would never leave the check point".  A few were sitting actually.  I have long ago resolved not to sit.  It wastes too much time.  Better to walk along slowly and address most needs.  At this point I discovered that the salted caramel GU that I have become quite fond of has extra salt and caffeine.  A nice thing to discover as I sucked one back.

A few other thoughts began going through my mind at this point.  I have recently read a book called "ENDURE" by Alex Hutchison.  Tests with endurance runners show we may only lose about 25% of muscle function in our legs - maybe as low as 10%.  Yep, so much is in our heads.  I trotted on with this thought in mind.  Yes, it was beginning to hurt, but suck it up buttercup.

The other thought was how slow people walk.  I was definitely taking walking breaks, but as briskly as possible. I passed so many just meandering.  Maybe they were that tired, but they just didn't look it.  To each their own I guess.

Before long I was dropping down into the Watagan Valley, which meant it was then time to climb out of the Watagan Valley.  On a training run a few weeks back I discovered a new trail section had been added to avoid an older, extremely eroded section.  I wasn't sure which way the "official" course went.  For variety I went the new way up a set of switchbacks that seemed to add a bit of distance, before rejoining the trail, very eroded and very steep.

There are some things that burn into your brain.  Brain research uses the expression "what fires together, wires together".  In 2016 I had run this section just as the sun was setting, and it has remained a most vivid memory.  In contemplating this run, this section most haunted me.  I would sit on the train coming home from work, watching the sun set, thinking this is just how the sun will be setting as I run past Mt Warrawolong along the Bar Trail - and it all happened exactly as I had envisaged.  It was like being in the middle of some amazing wide awake dream.  I stopped for a while to enjoy the moment and dig out my head torch in readiness for darkness to descend. A couple of super fit guys ran past and I tagged on behind them.  Eventually they stopped to rest and eat, but I carried on in the last of the available light, delaying using my head torch until the last possible moment.

The sun disappeared just as I left the single trail and reached the intersection of Walker's Ridge and Kangaroo Point trails.  In previous years I had variously been somewhat lost, or following behind others in a mix of hopefulness (that they knew where they were going) and confusion (because I had no idea).  Several weeks previously I had spent a few hours along this section knowing I would be travelling in darkness, so this time I knew exactly where I was and where I was going.    

Night running is mostly a blast.  It can be extremely calming in its own surreal way.  It is definitely far more enjoyable when you know the trail, because perception of time and distance can go completely out the window.  During the day you see the sun, clouds, trees, the sky.  In the dark it can be one long tunnel, sometimes with little eyes looking back, the thumping of marsupial feet off into the night.  However, it is not a good place to flashback to a nightmare from several nights previous that you had forgotten about until this moment alone in the dark.  Pushing it to the back of my mind, I kept on going.

Last time I remember a huge lift as I entered the rainforest stretch to The Basin (Check Point 3). This year not so much, but I was looking forward to only 20km to go, hot soup, popping on the thermal top in my drop bag (I am crap in the cold), and maybe a few salty chips.  These thoughts kept me ticking along nicely.  Passed the turn off heading up the hill that I would return to after visiting CP3.

Check Point 3 - 30.4km (84.3km total) - 7.37pm - 5.36hrs

CP3 was fairly quiet.  A plethora of kindly folk offered assistance, but I just wanted to sit a while.  I did accept the kind offer of soup though, but as I sat and sipped I became massively dizzy and light headed as my blood pressure dropped.  Whew !  It seemed to pass, but as I stood it returned.  Nothing to do but sit and wait.  Eventually all came good and I began asking about chips.  "Would you like potatoes and salt ?" uurgh. No thanks.  Cake, slice, chocolate, lollies ? Puke no!  Alright then, more soup.  I was kindly offered salt, but declined.  Idiot.  One sip and my body screamed "SALT SALT SALT".  I added salt, finished my soup, then headed off for more.  Body gets what the body wants.  I was in CP3 for 20 minutes, but what a wonderful 20 minutes.

Salty soup cravings satisfied, warm top on, dizzy head cleared, good to go.

The return to the turn off point took forever, but the climb out was much quicker than I remembered.  If my brain was beginning to play tricks on me, at least it was making the hills smaller.  As I climbed I met up with a 100 mile runner. He looked good, but after a few minutes conversation I suspected he was calling it quits at Yarramalong (100km finish line).  As we climbed and chatted we saw a head torch coming down towards us.  Suspecting injury I asked "are you OK. Do you need help ?"  The poor bugger asked if the turn off to The Basin was far.  He had gone up the hill at the turn off instead of passing straight through.  Who knows how far he had climbed before realising his mistake.  We gave him instructions, and he continued down the hill.  My heart broke a little for him.

At the top of the climb I left my 100 miler buddy who was happy to walk.  It was about here that my two days of early mornings and busy lifestyle began to catch up with me.  Sleepy brain = slow legs.  I was not overly concerned though.  I was feeling good and could smell the barn.  

The last 11km road section arrived.  The local area was having a scarecrow competition.  Large figures with pumpkin heads began appearing in the darkness scaring the life out of me.  I was getting a bit loopy and this didn't help.  I was beginning to hallucinate, and see creepy masses of shiny spider in patterns in the bitumen road. Hallucinations are just part and parcel of extreme endurance events.  I even bent down to have a closer look.  They disappeared upon closer inspection, but returned when I stood up again.  I noticed a head torch approaching behind me.  Just as it drew alongside and I was about to say "hi", a blast of music so loud that it had a physical impact exploded from the house beside us.  We both jumped several metres and piss bolted away at top speed not knowing whether to laugh, cry, or hide silently under a bush from machete wielding locals.  WTF !  Eventually we slowed and calmed and agreed that it was more than a bit creepy.  He pushed on and I was alone once more.  I was reminded of the saying "you don't need to be faster than the lion, only faster than the slowest gazelle".  I kept my pace up a bit longer and postponed a walking break.

Check Point 4 - Yarramalong - 20km (104.3 total) - 11.50pm - 4.14hrs

About 3km to go I checked the time.  Whilst I had no real time goals, I realised that I was likely to finish after 18 hours.  A little voice in my head said "no way".  Who knows what will happen to all those pumpkin heads after midnight!  I did my ultra running best to fire up the after burners, and began shuffling as fast as my skinny little pegs would go.  The last bend and hill appeared and I hit that finish line in 17:50.  Not bad for an under trained runner.  I had wanted to explore whether a good fitness base as opposed to endless training runs would work.  It did ! If I was after a killer time or a podium finish, perhaps not, but that wasn't my goal.  I finished tired, but injury free (blisters don't count and pain don't hurt – and I actually managed 3rd in my age group – hilarious).   

Checked into the finish area, collected my medal, then wandered down to the food area.  No one to meet me, no fanfare, just a bunch of old mates singing along to John Denver songs and manning the aid station. The glamorous life of a mid pack ultra runner. I jumped into warmer clothes from my drop bag before hypothermia set in (I could feel the shivers starting). I brewed up a super strong coffee to wake me up for the drive home.  As I sipped, a huge blast shattered the calm and we all looked around.  An old mate said "bloke across the road.  Got a shot gun.  Doesn't like John Denver". Really ?. No shit. I was awake now, and it was time to go before someone died.  

Until 2019
  


 

 






Sunday 3 February 2019

Rob and Cait...finish the GNW

Firstly a dedication...

This blog post marks the end of a certain chapter in my life.  It needs a Thank You.  Firstly to The Lovely Cait for suffering through all my just being Rob.  I suspect her patience will need to stretch out a while longer.  Also to the other Rob who put the idea in my head in the first place.  It's all his fault really.

But also to a dear departed friend Anne who one day unexpectedly gave me a set of GNW maps that I have carried with me all up and down the GNW.  I have cursed the little black dots that have repeatedly obscured unnecessary data just when I needed it most, but mostly they have got me through.  She always chastised me for walking alone in the heat of summer, but she always asked had I been walking (before chastising me some more).  I have thought of her constantly in my adventures along the dotted line. 

Let us begin...
  

Those flicking through my blog will know that I have been painstakingly knocking off the 250km Great North Walk over many years.  Technically I began whilst a young' un running around Brooklyn as the grown ups drank at the pub, before hitching us kids onto the back of the boat and water skiiing back down the Hawkesbury to Wiseman's Ferry in the dark. Good times.  Then later as a teenager wandering around Cowan/ Jerusalem Bay, and walking and camping between Woy Woy and Patonga.  For the past 15 years the idea of completing the GNW has slowly become something with purpose.  Finally the time had come to knock off the last bit between Teralba and Newcastle, the Yuelarbah Track.

I decided that I wanted to do it for my birthday, and somehow sweet talked The Lovely Cait into joining me.  An easy 6km day one, a birthday dinner at one of our favourite restaurants at Warner's Bay, then about 20km the next day.

Complications ? Who, me ?

We parked the car at Teralba, and I wandered up to the railway station to take a photo.  Two old ladies at a bus shelter looked at me wonderingly as I stood before them snapping away in a slightly creepy way.  Was I a weird pervert, or a confused terrorist taking photos of the local infrastructure.  No ladies, just a slightly crazy middle aged man on a mission.
 
As we set off, it was only slightly cooler than the surface of the sun.  A young couple at a bus stop were arguing.

I'm gunna f@#$%! hit ya
Dont you f@#$%! hit me !  I'll f@#$%! hit you first.
Nah, I'll f@#$%! hit you first
Go on then, f@#$%! hit me

He had children's names tattooed above his eye brows.  You can't make this shit up.

We wandered past the Teralba Lakeside Caravan Park.  From the outside it looked a bleak place where caravans and trailers came to die.  I later found an online review describing it as "Difficult place to find and when you get there you’ll wish you hadn’t".  Thanking my lucky stars I hadn't booked accommodation there for the evening, we walked on.

As we strolled along I passed on some of my experience of walking the GNW to The Lovely Cait, primarily that we needed to keep our eyes open for the infamously tricky to find GNW sign.
Image result for great north walk sign

The Lovely Cait immediately began picking them out from a distance, pointing them out in mocking tones.  I simply bid my time. We walked on.

The walk around the bay was lovely, but incredibly hot.  It was to become a feature of this last section that there are many treeless spots in the full sun.  Anyone who doubts the cooling effects of trees needs to walk this stretch in summer.  At least this part of the world still believes in taps and drinking fountains for the public, so not too much a problem.  Lots of great walking and cycleways.  A nice part of the world.  Just very hot.
Birthday Boy
At Warner's Bay I couldnt locate the GNW signboard with distances and directions.  Eventually it was found in the middle of a construction zone.  I also wanted to check where we needed to go the next day, but again found it difficult to spot the sign post.  Eventually I located it behind a sandwich board (of course !).  Both harbingers of what was to come.

We stocked up at ALDI then headed off to our evenings accomodation - the lovely Esplanade Motel.  The pool was freezing, but I didn't care a bit.  It was my birthday and I was 20km away from the realisation of a (slightly weird) dream.  For dinner I donned my finest clean shirt.  The Lovely Cait had decided make up was more important than a fresh change of clothes so she rocked the crumpled look.  After a great birthday meal at Sephardim's (highly recommended) it was time to hit the sack.

The next day was supposed to be cooler, but...it seemed just as hot.  With trusty map in hand, we set off.  The local suburbia was neat and tidy and treeless, the sky was cloudless, and the sun was blazing.  A local old mate was shirtless and mowing his lawn in his shortest short shorts.  A browner brown you could not wish to see.  Obviously "sunscreen" is not a word or product he uses often, and melanoma is some crazy fad the young kids talk about.  I walked past in my long sleeved sunshirt, neckerchief, collar up, big hat, lathered in 30+ block out and gave him a friendly nod.  

Being a week day, the streets were nearly empty.  We passed a bunch of Council workers  mowing lawns.  Along the way a car pulled up with two distressed ladies.  "Have you seen a dog ?  A daschund ?".  Sorry, we hadn't, and they drove off.

We arrived at the end of a cul-de-sac.  Bugger.  We had missed a turn.  The map suggested we could reconnect with the GNW by walking along the back of the houses.  A sort of trail wandered through the  scrub.  We walked along it until we could see what looked like a park and paths and...a daschund.  Using my neckerchief as a lead, we secured "Dexter" and called the number on his collar.  A very confused man answered.  Yes he did have a dog called Dexter, but he was being minded at his Mum's?  We gave him a location, and he called his Mum to meet us at the nearest intersection which was where the Council boys had been mowing and had their trucks parked in front of the GNW sign.  That folks, is how the Universe works.  
sneaky
Our Good samritan work done, we resumed the trail.

Parts of this section are not overly pretty, but still interesting.  Crossing under major roadways, walking through the bush then being alongside manicured greens and Ladies Golf Day, lots of small waterways with birds and frogs, in and out of streets and houses - all the while playing spotto with the elusive GNW signs.  Less cocky now, the Lovely Cait was more in the spirit of spying out the little buggers.  In a few places road works and development had resulted in some markers being removed then placed back in new and interesting and at times confusing positions.  We muddled through though successfully, but it did add time.  
Eventually we arrived at the intersection with the Fernleigh Track *sigh*.  If only more of NSW made such good use of unused rail infrastructure *sigh*.  We stopped for lunch and assessed our water situation.  Not great, but enough.  A sexy super model appeared out of nowhere in a skimpy yellow bikini.  I wouldn't have even noticed had not the Lovely Cait pointed out to me.  Apparently there is a popular local swimming spot nearby.

About this time my lovely walking companion expressed an urge to pee, but was unwilling to avail herself of the generous facilities provided by nature.  As we wandered on to the lovely Glenrock Lagoon, with a fierce sun beating down, and the walk proving way longer and harder than anticipated, the irony of having too much liquid on the inside, and not enough on the outside did occur to me.  I chose not to share this thought at the time, so I have lived to tell this tale.  
Glenrock Lagoon
Glenrock Lagoon
Walking around Glenrock Lagoon, the day did really begin to drag on, and I did begin apologising to the Lovely Cait, who admitted that yes, it was dragging on, but she was fine except for the blisters, dehydration, heat stroke and an impending bladder explosion - so all good.  I will admit somehow unexpectedly arriving at the gates of the local waste facility (sewerage treatment plant) had me down, but the Lovely Cait took it all in her stride.  She admits that she thought I was going to totally crack it at this point, and thought it was hilarious.  I agree that I desperately wanted to lose my shit, but disagree that it was at all amusing.  Once we managed to cross the dunes and coastal scrub and reached the beach and were back on track, it was plain sailing (sort of...).

A good old beach slog ensued. Walking on sand can be the pits, but it was beautiful, and it was cooler.  On another day, it would have been sublime, but this day was more challenging than I had expected.  Merewether Beach, though, was like an oasis.  What a fantastic spot and worth a visit at a later date.  Cait did a beach sprint to the facilities worthy of Grant Kenny in his prime (only with thighs tightly clenched).  A pod of dolphins swam amongst the swimmers, hang gliders soared in the sky, and the shop sold ice creams.  A slice of heaven.  
From the beaches, we rentered the urban environment.  We soon discovered that the planners of the GNW had in their wisdom decided that every local landmark must be visited along the way.  We wandered up, down, around, beside, through all kinds of places.  I eventually gave up and died at The Obelisk.  Cait lived on and gave a GNW marker the finger.  
Dead
Take that you little f@#$%&




The Lovely Cait returned me from the dead, and we soldiered on.  To the end, our little GNW friend was playing silly buggers, and we nearly missed the final right turn down to the ferry (the Crafty Cait spotted him hiding).  However, upon arriving at the wharf, nothing proclaimed that it was either the Queens Wharf, or the end/ beginning of the GNW.  Of course it was, but I had to be SURE.  What if it wasn't and I had to return another day ! Cait patiently trudged behind as I tried to find a clue - which I eventually did at the Public Toilets !  I excitedly posed as the endlessly Patient Cait wearily took the celebratory snap.  Our 20km walk that was actually easily over 25km was done.
DONE !
Then we trooped out to the end of the Wharf for a last pic.  I fiddled about with the timer as Cait suggested we ask someone just to take it for us.  I don't ask for directions, and I take my own photos (eventually).  After a few false starts, I got the job done.
Portrait of a patient wife as her husband tries (yet again) to set the timer (unsuccessfully)
SUCCESS !  Journey done. Time to go home.

To finish so abruptly would be a let down.  So let us assume that when State Rail trip planner suggests a short walk to the rail interchange, it is wrong, and the planned 20km birthday stroll eventually becomes nearer to 30km, but two extremely tired but happy travellers finally collapsed onto railway bench to await a magical carriage to whisk us through the outer edges of Newcastle and deliver us to Teralba where our luxurious air conditioned vehicle waiting to whisk us home.

A poem to finish

The opening lines have been in my head and walked with me for a very long time.  The rest arrived just in time, as these things usually do.


There was a woman who gave me maps
She knew that I would use them

They came in a little plastic case
so I would not lose them

Over months and years and nights and days
I have travelled up and down

Following a line upon a map
on a line along the ground

Through hot and cold and sun and rain
on days that would not end

I have walked and and run and thought of life
and of a now departed friend

We all need maps to go through life, something that can guide us
Like directions from a friend who will quietly beside us

There was a woman who gave me maps
She knew that I would use them

They came in a little plastic case
So I would not lose them

For Anne