PRELUDE
I heard a radio interview with Ruby Cornish early 2023. She was talking about having just completed the GNW (Great Northern Walk), 250km Sydney to Newcastle. I have completed the walk in stages over many years, but the interview and her excellent YouTube video (she works in media) got me thinking... could I do it one go?
She also mentioned her next long walk would be the 1000km Bibbulmun Track. The Bibba what?
As I prepared to go part time at work, I thought a perfect sign off to full time employment would be walking the GNW as a long walk. Let the planning begin.
Except I got way too cocky, way too excited, massively overestimated my fitness, massively overpacked, totally destroyed my body and feet, and lasted one pathetic day.
Epic fail.
HEADLINE: “Hiker dies of embarrassment”
All that was left was to watch more YouTube. Where I found Ruby had actually completed “The Bibb” in May 2023.
Then I began researching (ie: watching endless YouTube about The Bibbulmun Track). The Bibb is 1,000km long, and typically takes 45-60 days. Some do it all at once, some in bite size bits.
All those who know me know my life had descended into constant care for elderly parents, dealing with their dementia, dealing with hospitals and aged care. Watching YouTube helped me cope, and it gave me hope. It all had to end sometime.
2026 found me with both parents passed. I had begun shorter, more realistic bush walks and camping trips and I thought maybe I was getting back some kind of fitness. Longer day walks with a bunch of crazy friends also helped - physically and mentally.
In 2025, a wedding invite arrived for a Perth wedding in 2026. The Lovely Cait who had suffered me watching endless bushwalking videos on Youtube (especially the Bibbulmun) suggested that if we were already going to Western Australia, I should leave a week early and head out on the trail. I could have a tiny taste of the Bibb.
Who? Me? Mr I have never caught a plane by myself!
However, with some gentle encouragement (omigodwhydontyoujustdoityouhavewatchedallthevideosahundredtimes!), I decided it was a good idea. It only took a year to reach that decision.
I had already begun updating my gear in anticipation of some longer walks. I had a few new meal ideas. I had tested my planning with short walks, including a very special overnight wet weather experience with a new pack in a 110mm of rain downpour, and another longer experience (also with pouring rain AND cold weather) where I had got lost on the 6 Foot Track. It is impossible to get lost on the 6FT but somehow I managed, and I had a lovely unplanned for 32km final day. At least it was a good test of my fitness.
Now it was time to actually plan and repack another few hundred times as the Lovely Cait patiently watched me over think and repack and watch the same videos over and over and drone on about nothing as the big day approached.
She really is lovely.
DAY 1
Standing in the dark, waiting for airport shuttle going over and over what I had packed and planned. Already nervous, the shuttle was late, which did my head in. Then I was at the airport before I knew it, actually early, muddling through check in, then on the plane and in the air, and...
... IN PERTH. OMG. I made it. Some muddling around Perth airport, then onto a bus, then onto a connecting bus and I was standing in Kalamunda. Northern Terminus of the Bibbulmun Track.
First stop Bunnings to buy a gas cylinder (not allowed on planes) and the cashier asked to see my bag. I opened my small bag. Then she asked "and that one", meaning my backpack. 55 litres of all kinds of gear. She simply stared at me. I had to ask "are you sure, because it has a million things packed in there, and we are going to be here a very long time..."
She continued staring. I happily stared back, watching the queue grow behind me. Eventually a grunt and she gave up.
You have a nice day too.
Then off to shop for a few food items, and time to repack everything again. I even had room for a small goon sack so I could have a glass of red after a hard days walking.
As I packed outside the Information Centre, a bell was ringing, celebrating the arrival of NOBO (north bound) E2E (end to ender) - he had just completed the whole thing!
I left him to his glory and went off to grab a coffee before heading out. It looked like a storm was about to hit, and I was ahead of time, so happy to delay.
As I sipped, the NOBO E2E arrived and I congratulated him like a big fangirl. When he saw I was heading out he said "Helena is shut". There were hazard reduction burns planned, and a diversion in place. Apparently there was a temporary campsite with water and toilets set up.
The Bibb has shelters every 10-15 km. It is a wonder of volunteer support. Helena Hut by all accounts was amazing, and a huge favourite. It also featured heavily in my planning, which was 3 days out, 3 days back, about 70km, including a night at Helena Hut.
Worry and plan later. Coffee was finished, clouds were gone, and time to leave. However, the actual trail beginning was elusive and I did a bit of aimless wandering like an idiot before finally finding it.
(HEADLINE: "Hiker missing in Kalamunda town centre").
Kalamunda is lovely, which is fortunate, because I saw a lot of it. A lot of older men wanted to stop for a chat and ask about my plans and give me advice. It seems the Bibb is very well known in these parts. Their wives just looked on patiently.
I had time for a few photos and a look at the Northern Terminus that I had seen so many times online. It was so well done. As I was to discover, everything about The Bibbulmun is well done. Then it was time to find my first Waugul.
A Waugul is the snake symbol guiding the way. If you haven’t seen one a while, you may need to backtrack and check. More on this later…
First Waugul found, it was off to Helena Hut. About 11km.
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| I planned Kalamunda to Mount Dale, then return |
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| the first Waugul of the Bibbulmun |
Despite all the YouTube, it was surreal actually being here and doing it. It was just amazing, until it wasn’t.
Having just done my first bush pee off a rock with amazing views, I found myself descending to a junction where I thought I had made the right choice. Or did I…
I had passed a family with toddlers wearing gumboots. Now I had to reverse back and go past them like an idiot. I came back to the junction and saw the Waugul that said I was right first time.
I then realised I had been running on adrenaline since 3.30 Sydney time, with no breakfast and only one coffee and maybe it was time to eat the enormous eggplant and vege roll I had bought with my coffee. Also time for another enormous bush wee before the gumboot wearing toddlers arrived.
Food consumed, brain working, I head out again. Passed ninja toddlers and all was good. I also passed some very interesting rock formations.
After about 5km I began to question my life choices. It was extremely rocky, lots of climbing, and I began to anticipate a midnight arrival at camp. It was not a bit like YouTube. Then I reached the camel farm (you read that right) and mountain bike hub (more on that later too) and had a rest and a refill for the last most beautiful and easy walk to Hewitt’s Hill Hut. This was the Bibbulmun Track I had been dreaming of.
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| A beautiful view for my first bush wee on The Bibb |
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| a very interesting rock formation |
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| now this is what I was expecting |
A couple of ladies were already there, tents set up, chatting and cooking. I said my hello, then wandered off to find a tent site. Set up tent, organised water, got cooking started.
Actually, first I had a wash. I hate changing into camp clothes dirty. I had soap and lots of cold water. After a freezing scrub behind the hut, then I was good to go.
When I returned to the hut, a rather attractive young lady with shorty shorts and tattoos had arrived. Number 1 rule of hiking is older men leave young women alone. They don’t want you talking to them unless invited. However, as the sun went down, dinner cooked and cooling, I was enjoying a wine, when she started the chat. Turns out she had recently completed the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in America which I know all about, so we had a great chat. She is also an ultra runner, so more to talk about. On the PCT she had acquired the trail name (which can only be given by others, not chosen) Polar Express due to an ice misadventure. She asked if I had one, and I had to admit to "That Guy", given for a variety of reasons, but reinforced by taking so many wrong turns, it was advised "don't follow That Guy". She was going to knock out 45km the next day, so a quick early morning good bye was the last I saw of Polar Express.
MEAL #1 was a freeze dried dahl The Lovely Cait had bought for my doomed GNW. It didn’t look like enough so I had brought a brown rice pouch which was heavy but I didn’t need because the meal was huge so I carried it the entire walk. 🤷♂️
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| Hewett's Hut |
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| A clear night with a lovely moon |
The first night's sleep was freezing. I had the front of my tent open, which didn't help, but I was wondering if I had enough warm gear. It turned out to easily be the coldest night on the trail and the rest were toasty. A morning coffee had me warmed up though, then all packed, it was off to search for Wauguls. First stop Mundaring Weir Hotel for more coffee.
mmm...about that...
The morning was glorious, and the views were amazing. Up so high. There were also a lot of bike riders. It seems that the area is a hub for all sorts of biking. There is a 1,067 biking track called the Munda Biddi Trail stretching from Albany to Mundaring, and at times it closely follows the Bibbulmun - and as I was quickly to discover, it has it's own, very similar, Wauguls to follow. Which I had inadvertently been following. I emerged onto a trail with an enormous water pipe which I could only imagine led to the dam so I was convinced I was on the right track. Eventually as I climbed a series of switch backs clearly designed for mountain biking I realised it could not be the Bibbulmun, so when a sketchy side trail led to a main road, I got off trail, and muddled my way to the Mundaring Weir Hotel. As I approached, views of the enormous weir (dam) appeared. Somehow I was totally on the wrong side.
The legend of That Guy continues.
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| totally lost already and not clue that I was |
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| so many Wauguls |
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| it has to lead somewhere? |
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Mundaring Weir
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Despite already getting muddled, no real time was lost, and I still enjoyed an early morning coffee. It was also time to sort out plans.
Initially my plans were day one 11.km to Hewett's Hut.
Day 2 about 27km to Waalegh Hut via Helena Hut.
Day 3 8km to Beraking, drop my pack and day walk to Mount Dale, and return to Breaking Hut. Day 4 about 18km to Helena Hut.
Day 5 Helena Hut to Hewitt's for a second time, then last day about 11km.
I decided to keep to my original plan, but assess once I saw the temporary campsite. It might be lovely. Coffee done, I set off again.
Without any problems I reached Ball Creek Hut. I had no plans to stay here, especially as it doesn't seem to get much love online. I thought it was a beautiful spot though. Not up high with views, but a large open area with gums and grass trees. A lovely spot for lunch.
The next bit to the temporary campsite got a bit sketchy. Quite a bit of back and forth checking to make sure I hadn't missed a Waugul, only to find I had missed something obvious and gone off track, or to find that I had gone back to check only metres from seeing the next one. All of which added time and distance to the day.
Eventually I reached the temporary campsite, and a more desolate and miserable spot could not have been chosen. Option A was to camp somehow in the scrub, or option B, camp on a logging road used by trucks, motor bikes, and 4WD's.
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| the temporary campsite |
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| so enticing |
A bunch of lads were already there contemplating their plans, but the campsite made up my mind. I had already wasted time and added extra km chasing Wauguls, but reckoned I could do another 10km or so and make it to Waalegh Hut. Plan C was go!
The diversion wasn't too bad, but it was a lot of road walking, which at least meant keeping up a good speed, even if the views weren't great. However, just as I was feeling myself having a real drop in energy, and really wanted the day to be over, I reached a major track intersection with not a Waugul in sight. Which could only mean I had completely missed a turn off at some indeterminate point. I had just descended a big steep hill, which meant backtracking back up - and up - and up.
It was just horrible. Eventually I reached the top and after a bit more trudging, saw a Waugul and the biggest "BIBBULMUN TRACK" sign pointing to a very clear trail. I have no idea how I missed it.
The sun was beginning to descend, it was getting cooler and darker, and I was completely shitty with myself, the trail, Wauguls. At one point I thought I was off track again, turned to backtrack, then began to fall. I began putting out my arm, but realised the pressure was going to pop my shoulder, so just let myself slam into the dirt. For a while I just lay there, trying to steady. Then back up, retrace, found I was still on track, then kept going.
The next day I was to love this section, but at present it went up, down, up, down, up, down, very rocky with lots of toes bashing. I could also feel a lovely blister was developing in my left heel, and a possibly a few more beginning. My GPS was also telling me my 27km day was heading towards 32. Eventually a I crawled into the Waalegh campsite which was packed with about 50 campers out for the ANZAC Day long weekend. Miraculously I found a tent site pretty much where I would have chosen anyway. I got my tent up, then crept behind the hut, had a freezing cold wash down, put on my clean clothes, then crawled into my tent to die.
But did I die! No. But I did suddenly begin to get extremely nauseous, and rolled around feeling sicker and sicker, until I eventually opened up my tent and knelt at the entrance is a foetal position, desperately hoping to hurl, but then somehow fell asleep with my head hanging out the tent. How long I crouched there I do not know.
HEADLINE: “Hiker dies in compromising position”
Eventually I woke, feeling much better, so relaxed, but also freezing. I just wanted to stay where I was, head hanging out of the tent, but eventually forced myself to get in my sleeping bag. Possibly a life saving choice.
End day 2.
MEAL #2 nothing
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| sunset over Waalegh Hut |
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| sunset |
DAY 3
Now I was beginning to work out what day it was. Sunday. Day 3. As I emerged from my tent like a beautiful butterfly, it was apparent everyone was on the move. I decided to let them all bugger off before I made my morning coffee. I couldn’t help but be impressed by the general level of competence and efficiency on display. These guys were obviously regular hikers. When all but two were gone, I made my brew, and had a chat with Gus and Izzy. Gus had completely trashed his feet, and they were making plans for a pick up.
Having recently made a similar mistake on my failed GNW walk, I reflected on my own plans, which were to reach the next hut (8km to Beraking Hut), ditch the pack, then walk another 10km to Mt Dale, then return to Beraking Hut.
Except my feet were cooked, and Helena Hut was not a return trip option.
I tend to push on and push through, and I really wanted to reach Mount Dale…but I had no plan B if everything went to hell. So, totally unlike me, I decided to just do nothing. A rest day. A zero day. Let my feet recover a bit.
I just dawdled, had another coffee, let my feet see the sun, and cooked up my….
Meal #2 Cous cous and porcini mushrooms. A day late and actually breakfast
The Lovely Cait had bought me this meal on a whim. I destroyed it because it was delicious and now I was super hungry. Eventually Gus and Izzy departed, and I stripped down, lathered up, washed off, sat nudey in the sun, read my book and did nothing. It was a glorious sunny day, and I just chilled.
I later found out that soon after this section and this hut were also closed, which makes my memories even fonder.
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| morning at Waalegh |
As the day progressed, it seemed no one else was going to arrive, so I broke my tent down, hung it to dry, and set up camp in the hut.
This was so exciting! The Bibbulmun has regular huts, but it can often be better to tent, unless no one else is using it too, but I had it to myself. No need to be quiet. I could read for hours, then snore the night away.
The fire pit was still hot from last nights blaze that the large group had going. I never ever light a fire when camping, but I popped a few twigs on the ashes, and soon after they caught alight, so I added a few more, and sat watching natures television as the sun began to set.
Meal #3 As the day wound down. I prepped for my most ambitious camp meal ever. Mushroom risotto.
Risotto can be a nuisance because of extra cooking time, but after doing the basics, I had a firepit to allow it to finish at leisure, as I sipped my wine as the sun went down. And an extra wine because I was too wrecked last night.
Bliss
Day 4! Monday
After a perfect day before, I awoke to grey skies and imminent rain. Time to plan.
I decided to completely forget about going further, instead head back to Ball Creek hut. About 20km.
All I could recall was the slog to get here, so I guesstimated about 6 hours. Leave about 9, get there about 3. Except I was ready about 8.
The walk in had been horrible, but the walk out was beautiful. Full stomach, well rested, cool and misty, kangaroos. Just heavenly. Possibly the nicest bit so far, and I made sure I stopped many times to take it all in. When I reached the fire trail, I couldn’t believe how much I had hated those km. I couldn’t even remember some bits from the walk in.
It was also when I realised that the volunteers really do their best to help walkers like me by actually placing branches across the trail to say “Thou shall not pass” and that I had been stepping over them. When I reached the point where I had missed the turn on Saturday, there was such a pile of branches seemingly saying “STOP STOP STOP”. Except that I had.
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| Stop! Stop! Stop! |
The return walk along the diversion was done in pouring rain. Thumping down. Not too cold, just very very wet.
It can be easy to disparage large man made trails, but (ignoring the often wanton and excessive destruction), you are still outdoors and the bush and rocks surround you. You take what you can, and it’s always better than being at work.
It is also faster. You can just thump along, and I had already made all the mistakes on the out journey. Returning, I reached Ball Creek Hut about 12.45, way ahead of time. No missed turns made such a difference.
Ball Creek Hut turned out to be the best moment on the trail, and one of the best moments of my life.
I had nowhere to go, nothing to do, no phone reception or coverage, and apart from the gentle sound of rain, it was completely silent. In between showers, I wandered the large open site, and it was pure bliss. I looked at the light shining through the droplets at the end of the grass tree fronds. I piled wet leaves and wood on the hot fire pit, and out of nowhere it flared, so I had a warm fire too. It was obvious that no one else was going to arrive, so another hut to myself.
Then I had one of those moments. Like being outside of myself, I could see the mess and maze of all the stress in my life, and I had a moment of complete peace. Even in this moment I could see at some point I would step back in, but for now I was apart from it all, and just relaxed band let it all in. They say the trail has magic and I can only agree.
Meal # 4 a massive pasta cook up with pine nuts and Parmesan.
As night descended, I collected wood, cooked dinner, sipped wine, and enjoyed life. I read awhile, and fell asleep to rain.
HEADLINE: “Hiker dies of happiness”
Day.... not sure , have to think....
Day 5! Tuesday!
I woke to a clear day, and only a short way to go. My only plans were to reach Mundaring Weir Hotel for a massive coffee hit, then take the right way and find out where I had gone wrong the first time.
After a leisurely morning, I forced myself not to power walk to Mundaring and enjoy my time. However, it was only about 5km so I was soon there in any case. A group of walkers were already sitting and chatting outside the pub where it seems all walkers gather, so I joined them. One was a 72 year old woman with the most enormous pack, and she needed help from her friend just to get it on, before leaving at a snail's pace. Too much hard work and it didn't look like fun, especially as they planned to camp at the temporary camp site. Urgh. I enjoyed my first coffee with the group, then ordered another. The chef had raced off on a trip to town, leaving an extra large mug of coffee which was given to me at reduced price, so I was well and truly caffeinated by the time I left. I sat watching birds I had never seen before, creep closer and closer.
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| Mundaring Weir Hotel |
Leaving the Hotel, I didn't look for a Waugul, instead just had a wander. The whole weir precinct is pretty awesome, and all roads would eventually lead to the large, hard to miss dam that I had missed on the first morning...
Leaving Mundaring Weir, I was on a mission to find where I had gone wrong. The track was clearly marked, and far more enjoyable and scenic than the way I had gone on Saturday. At every turn I stopped and scanned. I knew I was getting close to Hewett's Hut, so it had to come soon. Until suddenly I was at Hewitt’s Hut! I will probably never know where I went wrong.
HEADLINE: “Hiker is totally confused”
After a while, it seemed unlikely anyone else was going to arrive, so I set up my tent in the hut. A few mozzies had been annoying previous nights, so the bug mesh would keep me bug free. No one around meant another chance for a good wash. The fire pit still had some heat, so I piled on damp leaves that eventually caught, and I had a nice little fire for my last night. I cooked up dinner, and had the last of my wine.
Meal #5 good old fashioned noodles and all the opened dried veggies still left over. I still had the (heavy) rice pouch and the dehydrated DEB mash that I had also hauled around in case my meals weren't filling. I had brought enough for mash every night in case I was still more hungry than I have ever been before. Possibly an epic hunger of never before experienced hunger. Except that I wasn’t. Which meant I was still hauling around 5 nights of mash. Mash without onion which I had stressed about and travelled far and wide to unsuccessfully find because that’s what hiking nerds do - and I didn’t even eat it! And dried tomatoes that made me feel a bit urgh so I didn’t want them. And a pack of dried peas. Lesson learned. Maybe. Probably not. The caution is “never pack your fears” and I was learning that truth again. I never eat breakfast, and usually have a moderate lunch, and get somewhat hungry at night. I somehow thought after 60 odd years this might change. Lesson learned? Probably not. It pretty much copies the mistakes on my failed Great North Walk last year carrying way too much of everything. A year later I am still using the food I bought. Expiry dates be damned!
HEADLINE: “Hiker massively overthinks and over packs. Wife roll’s eyes”.
As I sat in solitude, a series of loud bangs as the roof got pinged by Marri pods. I had heard the same noise on the first night, and it sounded like rocks hitting the roof. These pods were like a carpet in many parts, and they are huge. I was glad I didn't get clocked by one, because they are pretty hefty.
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| Marri pods |
Day 6. Wednesday. Last day.
The last morning was lovely and clear again. Again, no rush. It was 11km of track I had already walked, so no getting lost (hopefully).
The last six days had gone so quickly. It was the longest time I had been hiking since High School. I had had thoughts that I would get tired of it, but the huts make such an enormous difference. Now I could understand how people walk the entire 1000km over 45-60 days. Wauguls, toilets, shelter, water make life much simpler. Knowing that at worst you have a dry place to pack away before heading out is a huge plus.
I did manage to miss the trail at one point, as it left the desecrated track work. They don't mess about keeping things pretty in WA and had crushed any sign of a Waugul. They seem to like their bull dozers. However, the rock formations continued to impress.
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| lovely track work |
The last stretch arrived, and suddenly I was back in Kalamunda, way earlier than anticipated (not being lost does that). I probably looked and smelled homeless. The brilliant efficiency of Perth buses whisked me into the city, where I enjoyed a lovely long shower, and waited for The Lovely Cait to land and bring me a razor to shave off a weeks growth.
HEADLINE: “ stinky hairy hiker is happy”
