Wentworth
Falls – Mt Solitary
Epic. Just epic. Ticked
off a number of items on the “to do” list on this trip.
The main box to tick was
a camp out and watch the sun rise on Mt Solitary. It has been on my
list for years. I have been up and over, but never stayed.
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| Mt Solitary |
Starting from Wentworth
Falls Station at 10 am, I headed down the Charles Darwin Walk. A
lovely 2.5km meander along the stream and the first box ticked.
From Wentworth Falls, it
was down the stairs to the National Pass. I have been watching folk
walk down these stairs from a distance for a while now, but never did
it myself until today. Tick that box. A lot steeper, but way more
fun than I had imagined.
Wandered across under the
falls, then down Slack's Stairs to the Wentworth Pass. Ticking this
box was tricky as I had on my full pack, with a sleeping mat tied on
the back, which proceeded to get stuck and wedge me in several
places. This was the first time carrying a sleeping mat, and over
the course of the next two days it copped a beating and became well
and truly shredded at the edges. As it was $5 yoga mat from a white
elephant stall it really wasn't a problem – except when I got
caught up.
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| Slack's Stairs with their nice covering to trap folk with foam mats |
I had never been along
the Wentworth and National Passes. Wentworth Pass is a lovely tree
covered walk. Surprisingly tricky to navigate in places, and spent
some time with other walkers scouting our way, but reached the Valley
of the Waters easily enough (another box ticked). VOTW was as
beautiful as I imagined it would be, and it was lovely ascending to
the National Pass.
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| The National Pass |
The National Pass took me
by surprise with how breathtaking it was. The amount of work to
create such a track is astounding, and the views are amazing. I was
in no hurry to move along. It was great to see so many people using
it (although the young girl walking along playing games on her iPad
was a bit bewildering...). Finishing the National Pass (tick that
box) and returning to the crossing beneath the falls I had to climb
back up the steep stairs. A bit slower on the return up.
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| crossing under Wentworth Falls |
In May I had run The
North Face 100 and trained along the trails between Katoomba and
Wentworth Falls, but had always wanted to slow down and explore more
(part of the reason for this trip). Today was the day. The
interesting thing I found was that during training I had repeatedly
run the same direction. Today I was “going backwards” and I
found it extremely confusing at times. I was following signage like
a newbie tourist in many places as my brain tried to make sense of
doing things in reverse.
I casually strolled the
Undercliff Track before heading to the car park area. I was overjoyed
to see that the new toilet blocks were completed and the taps were
running. Last time through here there was nothing but construction
works and I was desperately short of water. Not today. Drank like a
camel before heading off to The Conservation Hut via Shortcut Track.
As usual the Hut was awash with the smell of yumminess, but I pushed
on after refilling water bladder. Today as I sauntered along I took
(a lot of) time to stop and visit all those little lookouts along the
way. Stood and looked down from Lilian's Bridge. All those things I
missed in training. The Cliff Walk is absolutely magnificent.
Another
couple of boxes to tick was scouting out starts to the old Roberts
and Gladstone passes at the back of the Leura Fairmont Resort. I
quickly found what I was looking for (tick one box, but add another
to the list) and it was time for a bit of nibbling as I walked along
sunny Sublime Point Road. A delightful trail mix of nibblies left
over from a dinner party, stale asian noodles found hidden in the
pantry, soy crisps, and a cup of soup mix tossed in for seasoning.
Originally was only going to eat half, but it was all so delicious.
Was tipping the last salty crumbs back just as I hit the Prince Henry
Cliff Walk and headed to the Pool of Siloam and Gordon Falls.
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| The Pool of Siloam |
About now I began to
think about the time left in the day, and distance left to travel.
Decided not to think about it at all and just let the day unroll.
However, by Leura Falls I did have a decision to make. I was pretty
certain I was not going to find water along the way, and none on Mt
Solitary, so it was time to refill the bladder with enough water to
complete my day, and also get me to the Kedumba River tomorrow – as
well as enough water for a camp out. Did some rough sums and came up
with 3 litres, add another ½ litre for good measure (I sucked the
last of my water the next day just as I heard the river so it was an
AWESOME piece of planning. Well done me). However that meant
suddenly adding 3.5 kg to the load. Not fun. I had developed a
lovely calf niggle, and descending the ladders with the extra weight
was not good (however, during the descent I scouted out the signage
for the hidden Lindeman's Pass (tick), also known as the “Mystery
Pass”. Another biggie on the “to do” list. This is a big box
to tick one day.
It is an interesting
feature of this area that during the day there are people everywhere.
Then at 4.30pm suddenly you are on your own. It is so lovely, quiet
and peaceful. Relaxing through Leura Forest and onto the relative
flat of the Federal Pass, I began doing sums in my head and pondered
my options. The light was fading. Do I camp early ? Push on to Mt
Solitary ? I was nicely balanced between pain in my calf, pain in my
shoulders and hips from my pack, general soreness and tiredness, but
I was still nicely full, well hydrated, and was happy to continue. I
postponed using my headtorch as long as possible just to keep the
roll going, but eventually needed to stop after missing a big
squelchy mud patch and kicking a rock. However, it is amazing how
much information the eyes and brain can process with even minimal
ambient light. A bit of moon and I would have been fine.
However, a night climb of
Mt Solitary is not something to be taken lightly (in fact it is a bit
crazy – well really stupid in fact). I am very used to running
trails at night with a head torch, I have climbed Solitary before, it
was a beautiful calm night, and I had my PLB, but the deciding factor was the Ruined
Castle campsite filled with loud voices and a big fire. Not for me.
I will not go into
details of the climb. Except that as the last 4km of a 30km day,
trying to ration my water, with tired legs and a tricky calf, it was
tough. By the time I reached the causurina clearing at the top (at
about 8pm) I was ready to drop. A couple of hammocks filled with
sleeping campers meant I needed to push on a few hundred metres more,
then it was pack off and layers of dry clothes on. The climb had
left me dripping with sweat and hypothermia beckoned. All rugged up,
I downed a litre of powdered milk and MILO which my body soaked up
like a sponge. Then I tried to set up the tent. Being a bit tired I
initially pegged it out upside down and struggled until I realised my
mistake. I was massively dehydrated from the climb, so it was
another litre of MILO and a phone call home to confirm that I was
alive and well. I had no appetite for solid food. It turned out
this was good as it meant I had extra water for the next day.
Laying in my tent
listening to the wind, I could see the lights of Katoomba and Leura
twinkling. I read for a while. The book of choice was “The Man
with the Golden Gun”. A nice easy bit of James Bond. Book choice
is always crucial to a successful overnight walk, and I had chosen
well. Completely mindless and requiring no thought at all.
Eventually it was lights out.
A few wakes in the night,
but quickly back to sleep. Not having used a sleeping pad before, it
made such a lovely difference. No sharp pointy bits. Heaven. Then
suddenly it was getting light. Really? Dawn already? I popped in my
glasses, but a lens was missing. Crap. A bit of scrabbling found
it, and (thankfully) it popped back in easily (all covered with
sweaty dirty fingerprints). Then I lay in my toasty bag and watched
my long awaited sunrise on Solitary – and yes, it was awesome. I
will be doing it again (albeit in a slightly less challenging way)
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| dawn on Mt Solitary |
Eventually it was full
light, so I emerged to brew up two extra strong coffees (not instant
coffee. I'm a bushwalker, not a savage). I set up my clothes to dry
on a bush, still wet from the day before. It was so clear up here
that they dried quickly, and my tent had no moisture in it at all.
Another litre of MILO and a muesli bar later it was an easy pack away
for an 8.30am start. Sadly I had to put on my clothes from
yesterday. Dry, but smelly. My neighbours passed by and were happy
to discover I was the noise they had heard passing in the night.
Apparently my spooky footsteps creeping through their campsite in the
night had been a bit disconcerting. I wonder why?
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| some idiot |
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| take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints. so I had better start packing |
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| top of Solitary |
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| top of Solitary |
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| the north face of Solitary |
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| Chinaman's Gully |
Mt Solitary is huge. I had a wonderful time wandering about. Apparently there is water at times, but I did not see a drop. Every small creek bed was dry. I did see a large bushy tail disappear at one point. A fox? Really? Up here? Lots of birds but no other animals. Lots of spectacular views.
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| Mt Solitary is enormous up on the top, much longer and wider than you see from Echo Point |
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| views south to Mittagong, Lake Burragorang and Kanangra from the back of Solitary |
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| Eastern Col |
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| views from Eastern Col of Kings Tableland and Kedumba Crossing |
Speaking of which, I had
begun using a plastic bag to collect rubbish as I went. There was a
bit of general litter, but the campsite at Chinaman's Gully in
particular was a pig sty. Seriously, if you are strong enough to
cart Bundy Rum and cheap Bailey's Cream knock offs up a bloody big
mountain, then be a decent human being and cart it back down. Don't
be a disgusting feral pig excuse for a human being. Seriously.
Anyway, the descent down
Solitary was its usual rocky, dusty, treacherous slippery self. A
few nice slides and a bit more shredding of the yoga mat. No
“downward facing dog” position, more like “dog rubbing bum in
the dirt”. It was getting nice and hot by now and I was sucking
back the water knowing the Kedumba River lay below. Just as I heard
the river burbling, I drank the last of my water, and I hit the river
hungry for lunch. I had plenty from last nights uncooked meal, so it
was time for a lunch of noodles, peas, and mash. I collected up some
water to sterilise as I ate, in preparation for the long haul home.
By this time I had consumed 2.5 litres during the morning, and only
just begun peeing, so I made sure I had plenty of water for the last
stretch home.
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| Kedumba River and my lunch spot |
Lunch done, all packed, I
hit the trail at 12.30, hit the Sublime Point Fire Trail at 1.15,
then dragged myself up Kedumba Valley Road. I have descended a few
times, but never climbed out this way. I have encountered walkers
coming up, and today I discovered why they all looked so beat. By
now I also had some lovely blister action happening, and somewhat sore
knees. Pure slog. However, all things do pass. Hit the gate and
car park at 2.15. However, once you reach the top you are still
faced with about 8km of road grind to the station. I deliriously
considered on the roof racks of some cars parked at the gate, and
waiting for a ride, but instead power trudged and limped my way to
the Wentworth Falls Station in time for the 4.10 train. The toilets
were all locked so my fellow commuters were treated to my peeling off
layers of sweaty clothing and a quick air bath before putting on a
dry shirt. I'm sure it made their day.
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| Kedumba Valley Road. It goes on and on... |
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| ...and on and on... |
Epic journey complete.
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